Winter Wonderland
Winter is a very special time in Budapest. The city is bedecked with Christmas decorations, which make it look more picturesque than ever. If you're after seasonal pressies, head for the Christmas market on Vörösmarty tér; here you'll find some beautiful traditional gifts, including folklore handicrafts, pottery, leather ware, intricate Herend and Zsolnay porcelain, cut glass and Tokaji Aszu wine. The waft of freshly made sausages, cakes and mulled wine is also difficult to resist.
A host of seasonal concerts are sure to fill you with the festive spirit. One of the highlights of the social and cultural calendar is the New Year’s Eve Ball in the State Opera House, where Hungary’s movers and shakers are treated to fine food and wine and a world-class concert, all followed by dancing till dawn. February’s carnival (Farsang) season of balls sees Hungarians dressing up in elaborate costumes and partying the winter nights away.
Fresh air fans should get their skates on in the fairytale surroundings of Vajdahunyad Castle or take a snowy hike in the Buda hills overlooking the city. Winter is also prime time for wallow ing in the warm waters of Budapest's spas, many of which have steamy outdoor pools. And when the cold gets too much, there are plenty of cosy cafés, bars and restaurants to escape to.
WINTER INVITATION
The Hungarian National Tourist Office is promoting the “Budapest Winter Invitation”, which is now in its third year. Visitors to the city can take advantage of this winter promotion, which offers one free night at more than 60 of the city’s leading hotels. This special offer runs from 1 November until 31 March 2009.
Guests can stay “three nights for the price of two”, or “four nights for the price of three” at many of the 3*, 4* and 5* hotels, making Budapest one of the best value winter break destinations this year. To find out more and to book your hotel online visit www.budapestwinter.com
Top Attractions
BUDA
Castle Hill
Castle Hill – home to what you might call Buda’s ‘old town’ – has been a cultural and strategic focal point of the city for centuries and was also the site of over 30 sieges. The inevitable damage resulted in several episodes of rebuilding, often re-using stones from the rubble and lending to the district a fascinating mix of architectural styles. The showpieces are the square of Szentháromság tér, the spectacular Mátyás Church and the Buda Royal Palace to the south. In addition, the views over Pest from the Fishermen’s Bastion will take your breath away.
Buda Royal Palace
The enormous building at the southern end of Castle Hill has been the royal palace, in various styles and guises, since the 14th century. It was rebuilt 400 years later and required major reconstruction work after World War II. It now houses the Budapest History Museum, the Hungarian National Gallery and the National Széchenyi Library. Every September, it plays host to the Budapest International Wine and Champagne Festival, the top event on the wine calendar.
Fishermen’s Bastion
The Halászbástya is often the first stop for tourists visiting Budapest, the fairytale turrets offering an elevated vantage point from which to view the city. The minarets and walls look medieval, but they were actually built in 1902 by Frigyes Schulek to complement Mátyás Church.
Gellért Hill and the Citadella
Visible from almost everywhere in Budapest, Gellért Hill (hegy), with the impressive Freedom Monument on its peak, is one of the city's memorable landmarks. The 14-metre monument was originally commissioned by Miklós Horthy as a memorial to his son, who died in a wartime air accident. When the Russians arrived, they replaced the propellor that the figure was originally meant to hold aloft with a palm frond to symbolise the country’s liberation from the Nazis. Just beyond the monument is the Citadella, a fortress constructed by the Habsburgs following the 1848–49 War of Independence. It now houses an open-air museum chronicling the history of the hill. The views from Gellért Hill are breathtaking; the summit is best approached along paths leading from opposite the Gellért Hotel and Spa. You can take a look around the Cave Church on your way up.
THE DANUBE
Elizabeth Bridge
When first built at the start of the 20th century, Elizabeth Bridge (Erzsébet híd) was the world’s longest single-span chain bridge. Like all Budapest's other Danube bridges, it was destroyed during World War II; unlike the others, though, it was subsequently rebuilt with a completely different design to its predecessor. Today’s reincarnation is in striking white and is watched over by the spectacular statue of St Gellért on the craggy side of Gellért Hill.
The Chain Bridge
The Chain Bridge (Széchenyi lánchíd) was the first permanent link between Buda and Pest and is a fitting monument to István Széchenyi – known as the 'Greatest Hungarian'. The bridge has a British connection too: it was designed by William Tierney Clark and constructed by Adam Clark, after whom the roundabout on the Buda side is named. It is closed to traffic on summer weekends, when it is filled with market stalls selling folklore souvenirs, children's toys and snacks.
Margaret Island
Budapest’s playground, car-free Margaret Island (Margitsziget)
has everything you need to enjoy a relaxing day – including a sports stadium, numerous tennis courts, the huge Palatinus outdoor swimming complex, an open-air theatre, Japanese and Rose gardens, early-medieval ruins, two spa hotels and a delightfully low-key beer garden.
PEST
Parliament
The world's second-largest parliament building – its neo-Gothic design is inspired in part by London’s parliament – is a postcard favourite, particularly when reflected in the River Danube below it. It is equally lavish on the inside, but tourists must be part of an organised sightseeing tour to enter.
St István Basilica
Named after Szent István (St Stephen), founder of the Hungarian Christian state, the basilica towers over the surrounding buildings just a short walk from Deák tér. The square in front of it is a nice place to enjoy a summer concert and sip a coffee or cocktail in one of the nearby cafés or bars. Inside, significant events in Hungarian history – with those featuring St István to the fore – are depicted in an appropriately Christian context.
The Great Synagogue
The Dohány utca Synagogue, between the Deák tér and Astoria metro stations, is the world's second largest (after the one in New York). It is also the focal point of Budapest's thriving Jewish community, which holds an annual festival in and around the impressive building. Behind it, towards what was formerly Budapest's Jewish ghetto, the Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park – dedicated to the Swedish businessman who rescued thousands of Hungary's Jews from the holocaust – contains a silver tree whose leaves are inscribed with the names of many of the victims. It is a beautiful tribute to those who lost their lives. The Jewish Museum can also be found here, and the Holocaust Documentation and Memorial Centre is an important and powerful reminder of one of the darkest periods in European history.
Andrássy út
Andrássy út was the late-19th-century brainchild of Count Gyula Andrássy, who was determined that Budapest should have an elegant thoroughfare to emulate Paris's Champs Elysées. The arrow-straight, tree-lined boulevard connects the city centre with Heroes' Square and City Park. Along its length you'll find the stunning State Opera House, Liszt Ferenc tér with the Academy of Music and bustling cafés, the fearsome House of Terror, the KOGart Gallery – and plenty of grand architecture. It's a lovely stroll, but if you want to take the weight off your feet, then board the underground railway (the yellow M1) -- the oldest in continental Europe -- which runs beneath.
Heroes' Square
The statues on Heroes’ Square are very much a who’s who of Hungarian history (with the notable exception of the unpopular Habsburg monarchy, whose statues were removed and replaced), and its scale and grandeur is an indication of the pride Hungarians have for their country. It is flanked on either side by the almost identical neo-Classical edifices of the Műcsarnok Exhibition Hall and the Museum of Fine Arts. Behind it, the Városliget (City Park) offers a host of attractions of its own, including the fairy-tale Vajdahunyad Castle, the Zoo and the obligatory Széchenyi baths.
Városliget
Budapest’s second favourite park after Margitsziget, the City Park is situated behind and to the right of Hősők tere as you approach from the centre of town. It contains the Széchenyi baths, the Petőfi Csarnok concert venue, the vast Transport Museum, the zoo and several outdoor watering holes.
Vajdahunyad Castle
This fairytale castle was originally constructed from timber and cardboard for the exhibition held in 1896 to mark the thousandth anniversary of the arrival of the Magyars to the Carpathian Basin. Its aim was to give the visitor an insight into Hungary's rich architectural past and it features small-scale reproductions of various buildings around Hungary and, in particular, Transylvania (now Romania). This architectural cocktail was such a success that it was rebuilt from more permanent materials in 1904. In winter, it provides a spectacular backdrop to an ice rink, while in summer, it is surrounded by a lake where pedalos and rowboats can be hired.
Museums in Budapest
Budapest is packed with museums and galleries, and there are plenty of temporary exhibitions in the most unlikely of settings, particularly in summer – so keep your eyes peeled. Also note that most museums are closed on Mondays. Entry is often free of charge, particularly with a Budapest Card, but the House of Terror charges 1,200 Ft. For up-to-date information on exhibitions and events, consult www.museum.hu.
The House of TerrorFor the much of the last century, 60 Andrássy út was an address that struck fear into the hearts of Hungarians. First, it became the headquarters Arrow Cross regime in 1944, before being taken over by the Communist secret police until the short-lived 1956 revolution. The building has now been converted into a highly stylised museum, incorporating the cellars – and even the instruments – used to torture prisoners. It is designed as much to remind visitors of the horrors of the totalitarianism as it is to educate. We recommend that you give yourself plenty of time, read up on the background before you go, or check out the museum’s excellent website. Open: Tue-Fri 10-18 (last admission 16.30); Sat-Sun 10-19.30 (last admission 18)
Museum of Fine Arts
The museum to the right of Hősők tere boasts a fine collection of art from all over Europe. The names speak for themselves: El Greco, Goya, Raphael, Rubens, Monet, Manet and Cezanne. And there's much more, including an Egyptian section and some Greek and Roman remains. Open: Tue-Sun: 10-17.30 (closed Monday)
Statue Park
This is an out-of-town cemetery for Hungary's former symbols of repressive Communist ideology, the statues of Marx, Engels, Lenin and other socialist heroes force fed to the Hungarian people. Like the House of Terror, it is a stark reminder of the “Big Brother” Hungarians lived with for four decades.The Stature Park is accessible via public transport and a direct bus from Deák tér. Open: Daily from 10 am till sunset.
Hungarian National Gallery
Occupying three wings of the Buda Royal Palace, the National Gallery contains around 100,000 works of art from the 11th century onwards, including architectural remains, carvings, reliefs and paintings. Open: Tue-Sun 10-18 (closed Monday)
Hungarian National Museum
It may be a cliché, but the National Museum really is impossible to miss. A short walk along Múzeum körút from the Kálvin tér metro station, its Roman columns loom up on your right. The artwork and artefacts on the inside are equally impressive, and include Szent István's coronation cloak and huge frescoes and wall friezes. Open: Tue-Sun 10-18 (closed Monday)
Ludwig Museum
Relocated to the newly built Palace of Arts, the Ludwig Museum was Hungary’s first international showcase for contemporary art, including some late Picassos and examples of American pop art, as well as collections of work from the former Eastern Bloc. Open: Tue-Sun 10-20 (closed Monday), every last Sat. of the month: 10-22
Museum of Ethnography
A celebration of Hungarian folklore just opposite the Parliament. Features a variety of temporary exhibitions of artwork, photography, clothing and jewellery (visit their website for up-to-date information). Even if ethnography is not your thing, the building itself is well worth a visit.Open: Tue-Sun 10-18 (closed Monday)
Museum of Applied Arts
The Museum of Applied Arts, the grand building with the green tiled roof you see as you enter the city from the airport, contains a wide range of textiles, ceramics and furniture handed down through the centuries. More than anything, it is worth visiting for its breathtaking interiors. Open: Open: Tue-Sun 10-18 (closed Monday)
Műcsarnok Exhibition Hall
To the left of Hősök tere, the Műcsarnok is Budapest’s premier showcase for contemporary art. Check the website for information on the latest events and exhibitions.
The Holocaust Documentation and Memorial Centre
Intended not just as a museum and memorial, the Holocaust Documentation and Memorial Centre is also a forum for discussion and an attempt to promote acceptance of the holocaust as part of Hungarian, as well as German history. An estimated 600,000 Hungarians, the majority Jews and Roma, were killed towards the end of the Second World War in Auschwitz and by Hungarian Arrow Cross troopers.
The Jewish Museum
Tucked in behind the Great Synagogue and in the house where Theodore Herzl, the father of the Zionist movement, was born, the Jewish Museum contains a wealth of photography and artefacts documenting Budapest's proud Jewish heritage. Even after the devastation of the holocaust, Budapest has the largest Jewish population of any city in Eastern Europe.
KOGart
KOGart is an Andrássy út mansion dedicated to art and pleasure. Regular exhibitions, events and concerts are just part of the story, the building also boasts an excellent restaurant and coffee house.
Uránia mozi
Small cinemas in Hungary are being upstaged by large and impersonal multiplexes and Hollywood blockbusters, but some bastions of small-scale, arty filmmaking remain. The Uránia cinema is the perfect antidote to bright lights and popcorn, even if you don't catch a film, drop in for a coffee.
Restaurants Reviewed
Read reviews of more than 50 restaurants in Budapest, published by Budapest Week online.
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